“All my friends know the low rider. The low ri-der is a little higher.” Well, War, if you are talking about mowing lawns, then the low rider should be a little higher…as in mowing deck height, what did you think we meant? Here in Nebraska the winters are bitter cold and the summers are sweltering hot. If you have a lawn you want to keep looking green and tidy you need to avoid a low riding mower. Most turf in our area (with the exception of zoysia grass) should be kept at a height of 2-4” tall, and on the taller end particularly under trees where shade is predominant. Why? The length of the grass influences the growth, density of turf as a whole, and disease/pest resistance. If you mow low, it opens up more space for weeds to germinate and flourish, it lessens photosynthesis area, causes more heat stress and opens up more susceptible areas to infection. This is probably one of the most important guidelines to follow for the ideal lawn.
Here are a few more “do’s & don’ts” to know:
– Never mow more than 1/3 the height of your grass blade. If the mower is set at 2” don’t mow until the grass is 3” long. If 3”, start when 4.5” long.
– Leave grass clippings on the lawn to allow decomposing nutrients back into the lawn. Only pick up/remove if there are clumps & piles.
– Remove grass clippings from the hard surfaces (driveway, road, and sidewalk) to reduce debris, chemicals, and nutrients lost into the storm drain.
– Frequently change the pattern direction you mow to keep the grass from permanently laying one direction and from causing ruts in the soil.
– Sharpen your mower blades 2x/season. Jagged cuttings make it harder to seal the cut and leaves more opening for infection.
– Water early-mid morning to give time for the grass to dry off and minimize evaporation loss of such a precious resource. To find the time when water is needed check the soil to a depth of 4”. If it is moist, water is sufficient. If the soil is dry in the 2-4” range, watering is needed.
